把混合酒饮装在非玻璃器皿中没什么特别新(xīn)鲜的。潘趣，传统上就是装在瓷器中的，这可(kě)以追溯到十七世纪。第一次有(yǒu)记录的薄荷朱丽普配方，装在钢或锡制的酒壶中，则出现在美國(guó)著名旅游作家约翰·戴维斯1803年出版的《四年半在美國(guó)行》中 。然后，20世纪60年代的提基文(wén)化的到来推出了异域风情，波利尼西亚，陶瓷马克杯，挖空的热带水果和喷火的火山(shān)潘趣碗。20世纪70年代玻璃器皿变得有(yǒu)些古板，提基也失去它的吸引力，直到它在20世纪90年代的复兴。也就是说，在发酵的20世纪80年代，玻璃器皿变得越来越大，以装得下性感沙滩这样的鸡尾酒，而小(xiǎo)小(xiǎo)的纸伞也变得五颜六色，吸管反而成了有(yǒu)品的象征。

There’s nothing particularly modern about serving a mixed drink in a vessel other than a glass. Punch, traditionally served in China cups, date as far back as the seventeenth century. The first recorded recipe for the Mint Julep, traditionally served in a steel or pewter jug, appeared in a book called Travels for Four and Half Years in the United States of America by celebrated travel writer John Davis in 1803. Then, of course, the arrival of tiki culture of the 1960s introduced exotic, Polynesian, ceramic mugs, hollowed-out tropical fruit and fire-spitting volcano punch bowls. Still, until its revival in the 1990s, tiki lost its allure and from 1970s glassware became somewhat staid. Until, that is, the barmy 1980s, when glassware went super-sized in order to contain giant, lurid-coloured Sex on the Beach-like cocktails – a time when little umbrellas and colourful crazy-straws were considered real class.

但过去十年中，几乎每一个关于玻璃器皿的常规都被光荣推倒。对呈现的重新(xīn)定义使得盛酒的器皿包括从传统酒壶、玩具金属消防桶、塑料带轮垃圾桶、鸵鸟壳，回收的啤酒易拉罐，到人造医药瓶和输血袋的一切。现在，比以往更花(huā)哨的，古怪的装饰物(wù)被锻造成视觉双关语，泄露着饮料的故事，勾出微妙的风味。因此，通过无穷无尽的社交媒體(tǐ)病毒式的传播，如微信，微博， Facebook或Twitter 。在中國(guó)，我一直很(hěn)喜欢失落天堂的乔治内梅奇的纸袋大吉利——基本上，一个包裹在一个牛皮纸袋中海明威大吉利既有(yǒu)助于告诉饮料的故事，又(yòu)增加了呈现时的视觉诱惑。受到过去那杯茶壶Kir Royales的启发，我在酒吧里创造了波士顿茶党：用(yòng)波本威士忌，浓缩苹果汁，柠檬，枫叶糖浆，薄荷，苏打水调制而成，并装载两个冷藏咖啡杯中。它非常受欢迎，并為(wèi)我的酒吧带来了知名度。事实证明，茶杯里也能(néng)有(yǒu)海阔天空。

The last decade, though, has seen almost every known convention in glassware gloriously overturned. A new emphasis on presentation has seen drinks being served in everything from traditional hip flasks to miniature, metal fire buckets via plastic wheelie bins and ostrich shells, recycled beer cans, faux medicine bottles and blood transfusions bags. Now, more than ever, fancy, outlandish garnishes are being wrought and fangled as smart visual puns in order to tell the story of a drink, tease out subtle flavours and, as a result, garner worldwide buzz for any given venue via endless social media channels like WeChat, WeiBo, Facebook or Twitter. In China, I always liked George Nemec’s Paper Bag Daiquiri at Lost Heaven – basically, a Hemingway Daiquiri served wrapped in a brown paper bag which both helps tell the story of the drink and adds a tactile element to the serve, too. Inspired by my experience with the makeshift, after-hours Kir Royals, I created my own teapot serve at my own bar: The Boston Tea Party, with bourbon, pressed apple juice, lemon, maple syrup, mint, soda, served in two chilled espresso cups – it was massively popular and, for the buzz it created for my bar, proved, quite literally, a storm in a teacup.

但是在玻璃器皿或怪诞的其它器皿的创新(xīn)方面有(yǒu)这样两个巨人：Artesian的亚历克斯卡特里娜，和Nightjar的马里安贝克，他(tā)们都在伦敦。两人最近都创立了带有(yǒu)亚洲元素的鸡尾酒，装载木(mù制的日本马苏杯中。 贝克的酒饮，Beyongd the Sea，是用(yòng)牡蛎叶浸泡的杜松子酒、菲诺雪(xuě)莉酒、電(diàn)子苦精，柚子和所谓的“海藻空气”调制而成。当然，是呈现在在一个巨大的贝壳中。 卡特里娜的酒饮，Prosperrity，是总统的改编，用(yòng)在瓦器里熟化的混合朗姆酒和梅酒，并装在清漆马苏杯与日本漫画餐巾纸呈现。

But, for innovation in glassware, or batty, obscuro vessels, there are two titans in the genre: Alex Katrena at Artesian and, also in London, Marian Beke’s Nightjar. Both have recently offered Asian-inspired cocktails presented in wooden Japanese masu cups. Beke’s drink, Beyond the Sea, is made with oyster-leaf-infused gin, fino sherry, electric bitters, grapefruit and a so-called “seaweed air” served, naturally, in a giant seashell. Katrena’s drink, Prosperity, is a twist on the El Presidente, with a blend of rums and umeshu matured in a clay jar, served in a lacquered masu cup and a Japanese manga napkin.

虽说听起来很(hěn)有(yǒu)趣，但老实说我不确定我真的喜欢。对我来说，容器是装饰的延伸，而且作為(wèi)一种有(yǒu)意义的装饰，需要与鸡尾酒相互呼应——也就是说，是整體(tǐ)的一部分(fēn)，而非追新(xīn)求异的小(xiǎo)伎俩。以上鸡尾酒的容器是有(yǒu)效的是因為(wèi)与鸡尾酒本身十分(fēn)相配。鸡尾酒本身就很(hěn)不错，而容器则使故事完整。这是很(hěn)重要的一点，因為(wèi)有(yǒu)些时候感觉关注点在呈现上比在内容上更多(duō)。记住，你对外观投入越多(duō)，容器，呈现等，你就越能(néng)够提升客人的體(tǐ)验，而如果鸡尾酒做的不好，则起到相反的效果。不论如何，我认為(wèi)，夸张容器的潮流已经退去，越来越多(duō)的调酒师认為(wèi)风格比物(wù)质更重要，所以真正做的好的人不愿意自己被与胡乱使用(yòng)容器的人混為(wèi)一谈。而且，在伦敦Talented Mr Fox的马特怀利做出了Urban Fox后，我们自问，我们是不是可(kě)以从这里开始？

Still, while all this sounds like great fun, to be honest, I’m not sure how I feel about these elaborate serves. For me, the vessel is really an extension of the garnish and, as with all effective, meaningful garnishes, they need to add something to the cocktail – in other words, they need to contribute to the overall, net experience of the drink, not just act as some novelty or gimmick. The vessels for the drinks above work because the serve fits with what is, essentially, an already good cocktail – they complete a story. An important point because, these days, it can sometimes feel that the focus is more on the serve than the contents of the drink. Remember, the more time you invest on the presentation, vessel, and serve, the more you elevate the expectations of your guest – the greater potential, then, for disappointment, if the liquid turns out to be limp. Either way, I think the trend for indulgent vessels might be on the wane. As more and more bartenders favour style over substance, so the more serious craftspeople among them will distance themselves from the gimmicky packaging and focus instead on quality or speed of service. Besides, after Matt Whiley’s Urban Foxtail, created at London bar Talented Mr Fox, where, we could ask, do we go from here?

虽说如此，我们还是应该记住，我们这些调酒师总是会被认為(wèi)对于2000年后的酒吧文(wén)化太过认真。我们需要记住的是，首先，我们调酒师是主持人和艺人。因此，有(yǒu)趣的呈现、怪异的容器其实和古董玻璃杯或是经典器皿其实是一样的。也许精心制作的呈现為(wèi)自己赢得了酒单中的位置。正如一位酒吧经理(lǐ)最近对我所说的那样：“好的马提尼不论用(yòng)什么东西呈现我都会喝(hē)”。

That said, it’s worth remembering us bartenders have often been charged with taking ourselves too seriously in this new, post-2000 era of bar culture. We need to remember that, first and foremost, we bartenders are hosts and entertainers. So perhaps fun serves and wayward vessels are just as relevant as antique glassware and perfectly made classics. Maybe elaborate serves have earned their space on the menu. As one bar manager I spoke to recently, “You could put a good Martini in almost anything – I’ll still drink it”.

Goldfish House Punch

来自特里斯坦斯蒂芬森的《好奇的调酒师》，这是一款用(yòng)“鱼缸”呈现，可(kě)供20个人共享的大型鸡尾酒的缩小(xiǎo)版。从本质上讲，它是经典源自1732年的Fish House 潘趣的澄清版本。它放弃了传统上用(yòng)的瓷器做容器，而改用(yòng)金鱼缸和塑料袋。

40ml 无色陈年朗姆酒
40ml 水
10ml 歌岱“南极洲” 白福儿
10ml 澄清的柠檬汁*
10ml 糖浆
4ml 桃子白兰地**

所有(yǒu)配料加冰搅拌，以透明金鱼碗呈现。上桌前撒上干龙蒿，即 “鱼食”，然后装在装有(yǒu)鱼形冰块和吸管的塑料袋中呈现。

* 使用(yòng)agar-agar法制作。

** 使用(yòng)家用(yòng)碳水过滤器澄清。

From The Curious Bartender by Tristan Stephenson

This is a scaled-down recipe for one serving usually served in a “fish bowl” for ten. Essentially, a clarified version of the Fish House Punch, a classic from 1732, this serve switches out the traditional china punch bowl for a goldfish bowl and plastic bags – the kind used to give away goldfish as prizes at fun-fairs in the UK.

40ml Colourless, aged rum
40ml Water
10ml Godet “Antarctica” Folle Blanche
10ml Clarified lemon juice*
10ml Sugar syrup
4ml Peach brandy**

Stir all ingredients over ice in a clear goldfish bowl. Sprinkle dried tarragon – the “fish food” – before serving. Ladle each serve into a clear plastic bag containing fish-shaped ice and straw.

*Made using the agar-agar clarification method.

**Clarified using a household carbon water filter.

Urban Foxtail No 2

伦敦Talented Mr Fox酒吧马特怀利
这肯定成為(wèi)推动边界概念，但关键的是，与此同时，它的工作原理(lǐ)告诉会场的故事，或许，拱，其创作者的幽默很(hěn)英國(guó)的感觉。

迪麦歌朗姆酒
孜然糖浆
苹果酒
“苹果垃圾桶汁”*

这种饮料的确切配方是秘密，但我们认為(wèi)他(tā)们会非常接近大吉利加抗坏血中的酸。用(yòng)带轮塑料垃圾桶呈现，所谓的“垃圾桶汁”用(yòng)另一个袋子装，放在垃圾桶上面，可(kě)以用(yòng)来加进酒饮中调节酸度。

*苹果渣，抗坏血酸和孜然的组合。

Matt Whiley at the Talented Mr Fox, London

This serve certainly pushes boundaries conceptually but, crucially, at the same time, it works to tell the story of the venue and, probably, the arch, and very British sense of the humour of its creator.

Diplomatico Rum
Cumin syrup
Cider
“Apple bin juice”*

Exact specifications of this drink are secret but we reckon they’d be pretty close to a Daiquiri with the acidity coming from the ascorbic acid. Served in a miniature plastic wheelie bin, the so-called “bin juice” comes in a separate bag resting on top of the bin and can be added to adjust the acidity of the drink.

*A mix of apple reduction, ascorbic acid and cumin.

Purple Drank

受Lil Wayne的歌启发，这杯鸡尾酒以诙谐的手法改编了受美國(guó)说唱歌手和他(tā)们的追随者青睐的一种非法饮料（在休斯敦首次创立，因此它的绰号是“得克萨斯糖浆”。传统上，这种饮料采用(yòng)过量的的处方止咳糖浆——可(kě)待因和异丙嗪的混合體(tǐ)，并与与激浪和乔利蓄牧混合。
50ml 香草(cǎo)波本泡酒
10ml Bols 蓝库拉索利口酒
10ml 甜糖浆
10ml 覆盆子糖浆
10ml 柠檬汁
20ml 橘子汁
苏打水

加冰搅拌，过滤倒入鸡尾酒杯。

*制作香草(cǎo)波本泡酒：将两根香草(cǎo)枝和45克葡萄干放入一瓶波本酒中，然后真空包装起来，在温水中慢煮四小(xiǎo)时。

**制作糖果糖浆：将五个Fox糖果与白糖和水混合，然后用(yòng)真空包装起来，放在37.5度的温水中煮十分(fēn)钟。