伦敦调酒师Matt Whiley是Talented Mr Fox幕后的鸡尾酒大师,今年他(tā)在伦敦新(xīn)开的酒吧大受关注。是的,不出意外,这又(yòu)是一处精心打造的现代派实验调酒根据地,同时也是双关文(wén)字游戏的天堂。Whiley之前调制过的鸡尾酒包括由净化猪血及“黑布丁蒸馏物(wù)”制成的血腥玛丽、以净化酪乳和“烟熏骨髓” 调制的Bone Shaker、还有(yǒu)由人参利口酒和“甜玉米和玉米片蒸馏物(wù)”制成的White Ape。这里的酒饮同样疯狂,同样依赖伦敦调酒界的标志(zhì)性技法。比如由Tio Pepe的雪(xuě)莉酒、“零点糖”、“黄瓜磷酸盐”和干姜水制成的Riot Cup Number One;以经典越南米粉為(wèi)灵感,由Pho spirit、白菜和青柠叶制成的Pho Money Pho Problems(Whiley保证这款鸡尾酒里决不含肉);以Peg + Patriot烤冰激凌利口酒和起泡葡萄酒Cocchi Brut调制而成的Rice Rice Baby;由Koniks Tail伏特加、“酵母提取物(wù)蒸馏物(wù)”以及“盐酥炸橄榄”制成的Beauty and the Yeast。表面上看,这个酒单似乎偏爱味道鲜美的鸡尾酒。但Whiley坚称,尽管伦敦人的味蕾已 经进化并愿意接受更多(duō)的风味,找到平衡永遠(yuǎn)是关键。人在伦敦的他(tā)告诉我们:“我不会说这个酒单偏向美味鸡尾酒,但我相信酒单应该要达到平衡,我觉得美味鸡尾酒和其 他(tā)苦味、柑橘味和甜味鸡尾酒一样,是酒单不可(kě)分(fēn)割的一部分(fēn)。”除了调酒科(kē)學(xué)之外,Whiley认為(wèi)Peg + Patriot酒吧不会成為(wèi)那种端着架子一本正经,如宗教般严肃的酒吧,而是一家“充满乐趣和友好氛围的邻家酒吧。”他(tā)说他(tā)会将酒单制作的简单又(yòu)直接。“我们试着将酒单中那种极客式的鸡尾酒描述除去,这样就不会造成我们和客人之间的距离感。但如果他(tā)们感兴趣的话,我们将展示我们调酒的设备,并非常乐意向他(tā)们讲解整个过程。”

London bartender Matt Whiley, the cocktail savant behind the Talented Mr Fox, has opened one of the most buzzed-about bars in London this year. And, yes, as expected, it’s another meticulously wrought stronghold of modernist, hocus-pocus bartending and pun-heavy wordplay. Some of Whiley’s former cocktails, remember, include a Bloody Mary made with clarified pig’s blood and “black pudding distillate”; the Bone Shaker, a combination of clarified buttermilk and “smoked bone marrow”; and the White Ape, made from ginseng liqueur and “sweetcorn and cornflake distillate”. Here, the drinks are no less barmy or indeed any less reliant on techniques now so central to the London id. Consider the Riot Cup Number One, with Tio Pepe sherry, “O’Clock Sugar”, “cucumber phosphate” and ginger ale; the Pho Money Pho Problems, a rework of the classic Vietnamese noodle soup, made from “Pho spirit”, pak choi and lime leaf (“there’s no meat in the cocktail,” promises Whiley); the Rice Rice Baby, a wind-up of “Peg + Patriot roasted ice cream liqueur” and Cocchi Brut, a sparkling wine; or the Beauty and the Yeast, a mix of Koniks Tail vodka and “yeast extract distillate” that comes with a “fried olive brine crisp.” On the face of it, the menu seems to show a bias for savoury flavours. But Whiley insists that despite advances in the London palate, that now embraces a broader spectrum of flavour profiles, it’s always about finding an even keel. “I wouldn’t say the menu leans towards savoury flavours,” he tells us, from London. “But I do believe menus should be balanced and I see savoury drinks just as integral to our menus as bitter, citrus and sweet cocktails.” Despite the science, Whiley reckons the Peg + Patriot does not set out to offer an uptight, quasi-religious cocktail experience but is instead a “fun, friendly neighbourhood bar.” He keeps the menu short and straightforward, he says. “We try to keep the geekery away from the [cocktail descriptions] so we don’t alienate any of the guests. If they’re interested, though, we have the equipment on show and we’re happy to talk them through the process.”

Salt Beef Sazerac

·33ml 咸牛肉蒸馏物(wù)*
·15ml 黑麦威士忌
·15ml 干邑
·2滴 贝娇苦精
·2.5ml 糖
将所有(yǒu)原料加入搅拌瓶,搅匀后倒入放有(yǒu)冰块的洛克杯,以芥菜叶蒸馏物(wù)装饰。**
*将伦敦本土商(shāng)店(diàn)Bagel Bake出品的咸牛肉芥菜硬面包圈和中性谷物(wù)酒精混合并冷泡三小(xiǎo)时,以蒸发器蒸馏;用(yòng)水切割。
**用(yòng)中性谷物(wù)酒精冷泡芥菜叶48小(xiǎo)时。用(yòng)蒸发器蒸馏;用(yòng)水切割。

·33ml Salt beef distillate*
·15ml Rye whisky
·15ml Cognac
·2ds Peychaud’s bitters
·2.5ml Sugar
Add all ingredients to a mixing jar, stir and serve in a rocks glass; garnish with mustard leaf distillate.**
*Blend a salt-beef bagel with mustard purchased from local London shop Bagel Bake with neutral grain spirit; cold infuse for three hours then distil with evaporator; cut with water.
**Cold infuse mustard leaves with neutral grain spirit for 48 hours; distil in evaporator; cut with water.

Peg + Patriot / 英國(guó)伦敦爱國(guó)者广场Town Hall Hotel / Town Hall Hotel, Patriot Square, London / +44 020 8709 4528 / www.pegandpatriot.com